Engine winterized.
This was the easiest winterizing I have ever done.
Close seacock.
Remove cap on seacock standpipe, remove strainer.
Start engine and pour in rv/marine antifreeze.
Done in three gallon, shut off engine.
Reinstall strainer and cap.
Tape note to starter key, and tape over key slot.
All done in 15 mins.
I am leaving a thermostaticly controled heater on at 40degF in the engine space until overnight temps are consistently above 40degF, which is probably overkill, but overnight temps for the rest of the month will be below freezing.
12 volt to 110 volt pure sinewave inverter, 3,000 watt continuous, 6,000 watt peak.
Delivered.
Dryfit before installing battery cable from house bank and 110v to refrigerator/galley and toggle for shore power. Space heater will remain on shore power only outlet. Replace engine battery, which will be relocated as second house battery. Both batteries are same year, manufacturer, AGM, type and capacity.
Fridge is less than 100 watts at peak, microwave is less than 1,000 watts at peak, induction top is less than 1,800 watts at peak.
So 1,800 + 1,000 + 100 + 2,900 watts. Round to 3,000 watts all on at same time
3,000 watts / 110 volt = 27 amps. Round to 30 amps so 10AWG wire
Fridge and one appliance 1,800 +100 = 1,900 watts. Round to 2,000 watts
2,000 watts/ 110 volt = 18 amps. Round to 20 amps so 12AWG wire
Inverter can supply 3,000 watt continuous and 6,000 watt peak, but with the current single battery I cannot supply 3,000 watts for all appliances at same time at peak but I will install 10AWG to accomodate for future battery upgrade.
Functional use will be refrigerator with microwave or induction top, cannot use microwave and induction top at same time even on shore power which is 30 amp
